Ch 25 Finishing

Date:  03-20-2021

Number of Hours:  40

Manual Reference:  25

Painting Prep has continued the last few weeks. There is not much to see or document, just more hours of work.

I hadn’t done as good a job as I thought. Here’s a little of the glazing product filling in holes before a sand.

I found that when I hit the surfaces with compressed air all these little holes showed up that were previously hidden with dust. Add a strong work light, a pair of glasses and get a couple of inches away and I found lots of things to fill. It is only in some places and the pic above looks is much worse than it is. I’m doing my best to fill every hole I find.

So from a distance it all looks the same but trust me. I have improved the prep. Given my own roll-on paint was a fail and the professional car spray painter I engaged didn’t work out either. Now I have a real live airplane painter who is going to paint the plane next month.

It will be boring white, using certified aircraft paint with a certified crazy price. It will be painted wings on. I did spend quite some days building wing jigs that I was not happy with so wings on it is! We will be doing it on weekends and hopefully at the airport in another hanger if everything works out.

I shall report back.

Date:  02-06-2021

Number of Hours:  30

Manual Reference:  25

Painting…. <insert expletive here>

First try was the roll on paint which I documented. Epic fail. Second try, a local painter. That cost two months and I now have to remove the paint he did put on. Lovely guy, who wasn’t up to doing fiberglass planes.

I’m now going back over the whole airframe for a ‘final’ prep …again.

Pinhole are the enemy of paint. These tiny little guys hide on the surface waiting for paint. They trap air and then let it all go after the wet paint is on top leaving a small crater. I was schooled on pinholes with the second painting attempt so I WILL do better prep.

One cure is a glazing filler. Very thin, easy to sand. Of course finding the pin holes needs eye glasses, compressed air to blow out the dust and a strong light.

I did the canard first as its the most important shape to get right and to get smooth. Its a wrap, again.  I’m going to 220 grit on the surfaces. That’s more than enough. Too smooth and the primer won’t stick.

When I find pin holes I stick a bit of tape on and then come back with the mixed glaze, you only have a few minutes before it goes hard. It is a system of sorts.

Sure, it looks the same as when I started. Except less pin holes.

A careful revisit to the most balance and weight critical item on the plane. The elevators.

I’ve done most of the flying control surfaces now. After the fill they get a tickle with the long boards.

The failed attempt #2 with the professional painter is getting sanded off. That’s the rudders and wheel pants. Its a very big job for only a few parts. I’ll have to do the pin hole thing afterwards again as well.

Many hours still to do. The wings and canard are wrapped up in plastic. I just have the fuselage to do and those pants.

The painter I want to use has now visited the plane for a good look and he will be sending a quote. He has done a Long-EZ before and I’ve seen the job. No problem with the quality of work. He does business jets and RV’s and pretty well whatever you like. Hats off to these people who paint for a living, it’s hard work.

I’m back to using DuPont airplane paint in boring old white. There is a delay on getting paint due to Covid and my new guy, assuming I can live with the price, is not available until April. Even then we will probably hire a booth on the airport and paint on the weekends.

At least its one less trip on a truck.

Date:  11-26-2020

Number of Hours:  28

Manual Reference:  25

The canopy outside edges, the front headlight edges, the side window edges and the side light lens all need this edge treatment. I thought I’d be OK with just painting up to them but really, push has come to shove and that won’t work.

I started on the canopy back edge. First up is really careful removal of old tape and cleaning up the edges right at the canopy surface. I used WD40 and a microfiber cloth for the gunk. Works a treat although getting oil on my bare fiberglass wasn’t ideal. I did the necessary cleanup.

Once my exposed perspex was good using razor blades and a sharpened 4mm tip chisel super carefully, I had an edge of canopy to canopy frame. The issue is that it is not straight and that’s what this procedure is all about.

Next comes plastic tape. I like the Nitto brand which we used to use in gliding for tapping wing joins. Once I had the tape right on the edge I wanted the next step is to apply another tape right on top in the same place. Yes, seems weird.

Time for some sandpaper to ensure a good surface for the filler AND to scuff up any exposed perspex that filler has to adhere to. If the tapes get damaged from sanding they need replacing.

One the 410 and West filler is applied the tape has to come off straight away. No waiting for it to get a little stiff.

The idea of the two plies of tape? I slowly remove the top one at a 45 degree angle to the job. This gets rid of most of the excess filler sitting on the tape. Now the last ply can be removed at the same angle slowly and you get the razor sharp line you can see above. Now it can be left to cure.  I’ll show the clean up on some other parts.

The big job is not shown. That’s cleaning up the edge before the tape. You need a chair, some good tunes in the headset and a determination not to scratch the canopy anywhere. Here we have the two plies of tape and filler applied.

First layer of tape removed and we almost have a good edge.

Second ply gone and our edge shows. That blue tape is on the inside. You can see I’ve had to remove some protective plastic form the canopy to do this job.

Same thing on the other side and the front of the canopy too for that matter. Here we have the tape removed and waiting for the filler to cure.

After cure I re-tape the edges and very carefully sand to be flush at the side. I’m just using painters tape for this part as it will stay on for a while. There is not too much residue when you remove it. During sanding I had to renew it in a couple of places. It’s slow careful work.

Here’s a side window after a big clean up. Not so pretty eh.

Close up of the ugly. You can see I’ve had to peel away protective tape and really had to be careful at the edge. .

Fortunately the oval windows have a definite boarder where a step was cut making the process of taping easier. I’m using thin green tape I got from a specialist spray paint shop. It can deal OK with the cures.

Again the two ply of tape. It doesn’t have to be perfect although I could have done better with the top layer. Regular blue tape goes on after that. Again careful sanding is next.

This is after the tape removal while the filler is still very wet.

One mistake I seemed to keep making is having too much filler so that as it cures it drops a little at the top. Gravity. Who knew? After sanding it seemed to go away and I got clean edges once down to the tape.

This is after the edge clean up. I’ll do some close ups on the next item. Trust me, the windows are OK with an edge ready for painting. Still the nose and side lights to go.

Quite a lot of clean up to get to these edges. The lens might need a polish too. I wasn’t careful enough during construction with keeping it tapped. It’s not too bad.

You can just see the border flange I glued onto the lens to make it secure for installation.

I have used the tape to get the light lens border I want. This covers the flange and I have a bit of sanding to ensure good adhesion on the perspex.

This is the inside where the light get to be mounted.

The usual mess with filler.

Tape removed and I have a good border.

Post sanding and you can’t really see the edges. They are there! I again had a bit of sag in the filler but once it was flush with the fuselage and flat I got away with it.

I’d made the side light lens a long time ago when I did the nose lens. These came from camera security domes I bought online. I didn’t see bending flat perspex into a compound curve being quicker or easier.

I’ve floxed the lens in place and then held then for the cure with hot glue. Even these lens have a curve which is pretty close to the slight fuselage curve in this area.

The edges of the light opening need to match the light itself. I don’t need to show off the flange gluing area. A bit of cardboard makes a template to draw around so I have a line for the tape to follow.

Again the thin green tape works well even in these tight curves. You might see how I’ve sandpapered the lens where filler is going.

I admit it, too much filler and you know its going to sag. Maybe a smarter person would have done two fills, but have you seen how many hours I’m into this build for?

Tape off and we have a roundish light hole.

Sanding got my sharp edges back. Lucky eh?

The lights and window edges done I can get on with final prep for the primer paint. We are at around 80 grit on the upper fuselage and I need the big scratches out, some minor detailing and down to 220 grit. I did final sand on the lower part when the fuselage was last upside down. It might never be again.

 

 

 

Date:  10-24-2020

Number of Hours:  10

Manual Reference:  25

This step has been ongoing for some weeks. All the loose covers and internal parts have been painted separately.

Here the left console is parted and in place.

The right console.

Interior parts have been put back in now. Partly to ensure they still fit and of course in preparation for the wiring.

The back seat has quite a few panels that were separately painted and here installed temporarily.

I did the interior of the fuselage cover pieces too. Maybe unnecessary but I feel they will be protected when removed during servicing by having a little paint.

The nose is full up again.

Date:  10-15-2020

Number of Hours:  2

Manual Reference:  25

The top coat is a 2K Matt . Concept Paints Unicolour MS22 2K clear (Matt) using the fast hardener. Its a 2:1 mix.

The topcoat is so Matt… it doesn’t look like anything has changed!

I have to wait until tomorrow until its cured, tempting as it is to start peeling back some of the tapes.

The colour depends on the light. Its a darkish grey with white flecks.

A little milestone along the way.

Date:  10-14-2020

Number of Hours:  4

Manual Reference:  25

More final prep and taping. Finally some colour.

This is the primer Grey.

I was surprised that it took a while to get this rattle can paint onto the job and my finger was getting very tired.

I went for several light coats. Its matt and flat and so very forgiving.

The back seat. I hope it’s going to be comfortable for my passengers. Yes, not exactly big back there and you do have to lay down slightly to fit with that big sump tank to sit on.

I have to admit it looks like a very dark interior in this light. Pre top coat too.

I am painting many of the bits are are not normally seen. I see them. You might notice the panel lower section is masked up. This was after the grey but before the ‘texture coat’. The main panel will also be just grey with no texture.

Here we go with the topcoat ‘speckle’ finish. Maybe its mid-coat? The final coat will be clear.

You can see the colour of the cockpit is lightened considerably now.

I didn’t have to put the textured paint in the nose, but I did. Just a bit for consistency.

The sides look good. The seat bottom is being done separately.

I’m liking the textured look. Do you? Next up will now be a 2K (two pack) sprayed matt finish. This final coating should be really hard wearing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Date:  10-13-2020

Number of Hours:  40

Manual Reference:  25

Prepping the fuselage bought a whole lot of surprises and unexpected jobs.

I went to tighten/torque the rear seat belt hardpoints. First I was short on the required threads. I scrapped away some glass to suit but was still short.  In the end two new fittings in much thinner chrome molly ‘appeared’. It was looking good until one of the AN525 screw head bolts started turning. This is like an engine stud turning. Not a good feeling.

The solution took over two days work including removing the 4 AN525’s and replacing them with AN4 bolts of a suitable length. I have photos but this stuff just hurts, its now in the past. Except I’m still filling and sanding the outside in four places.

Then I lost another full afternoon with just one nutplate in the panel in a very difficult place. Then there was an issue with the common sump lid. Don’t ask….

Now is the time for all those little jobs as I prep the fuselage interior for painting, for real. There is no putting off anything until later before the paint.

Getting EVERYTHING out was a part of the prep job. I have several big boxes of labeled parts.

Chasing around just one window was a full afternoons work. Razor blades and sharpened chisels and EXTREME care. I just peeled back a little of the protective plastic and cleaned the edge, no scratches were added which is why it took so long.

The canopy had to come off to do the windows. I made a rough jig and this will become a ‘side job’ while fuselage work and electronics go ahead. Always something to do on this build.

There was a lot of sanding and cleaning for the interior prep. Eventually I got to mask edges.

The windows have 5mm tape edges then painters tape. I hope I never get that view for real. It will mean the plane is in deep blue water.

Some last looks of the raw glass colour.

The panel edges don’t need paint. Just like all those click bond threads have to be protected.

Back seat masking up. I’m leaving the sump opening raw aluminium as this will get a cork gasket and hopefully no leaks.

There can’t be too much tape, more means less work to clean up later.

Nearly there.

Everything had to be covered on the outside. Previously I’d blown the insides with compressed air, several times. I finally did the interior with acetone just damp on a paper towel and then a tack rag.

Date:  08-04-2020

Number of Hours:  18

Manual Reference:  25

You know there is some sort of progress when it is time to paint the interior of the plane.

After years of taking notes and reading on line posts, this is my interior paint system. Criteria is for long wearing, easy to maintain and touch up and all done with a rattle can.

The piece on the right of the pic is one of several sample pieces I made.

As you see above, all Rust-oleum. My undercoat is the flat grey, stone American accents for the texture and Satin clear on top.

The process is a light sand of the item. It doesn’t need a careful fill for a ‘perfect finish’. Due to the texture I am quite happy to just prep the surface with a sanding of around 80-120 grit and then clean the surface with Prepsol, a grease and wax remover.

First up, Primer for a full grey coverage. Then spray on the texture which is amazing to see out of a rattle can. Next up a good three coats of clear. Then I sandpaper the sharp edges off the surface as its really rough, not too much sanding here either. Finally I’m using scotchbrite (as pictured) to dull the surface to a matte finish. That takes a good rub for a few minutes.

It ends up with texture that will wear well but OK to the touch. You can see some weave patterns here and there which I like too. From a distance it looks perfect, closer and it still looks good to me.

I made myself a little tent to spray the many bits that go on the inside.

When you get these loose bits together its a bit depressing to think how much they will all weight in total. If I was building a pretty rough plane and didn’t take passengers I could probably leave most of them out.

I’m doing a batch of undercoats first and the canard is as good a place as any for a waiting line of components.

I did spend a whole afternoon making this oxygen holder 100 grams lighter. Despite its many added on surfaces, once painted with the texture, it looks pretty good.

A really big job before I even start prepping the interior is getting everything out. That nose lift will be the last thing to go.

I have several boxes now of electronic bits and controls and so on that have been removed for the painting. You can see the glass frame I made for the instrument panel here and all the many click bonds!

The plane is starting to look like it did months ago when I was adding so much.

As I work I’m thinking about how I will paint various parts. The interior of the canopy and around the side windows will need a few days of extra attention.

Covid19 Update

Its August 9th and I’ve been in lockdown since July 30th. I can’t go to the hangar to work on the plane, I can’t travel more than 5km from home, there is an enforceable 8pm curfew and we are allowed out once for shopping and up to 1 hour a day for exercise and of course with a mask on when not at home.

It’s stay at home the rest of the time for 42 days at least. How long will depend on infection numbers in our state.

This will be my last post until restrictions are lifted and I can get back to work! Meanwhile the plane does need a lot of paperwork that I haven’t done. I guess I’m out of excuses for putting that off!

See you on the other side.

Date:  01-01-2020

Number of Hours:  40

Manual Reference:  25 - Paint Prep

11 days or so since my last post. Frankly most of it has been sanding and filling. Quite some work on the avionics install at the same time but thats another blog entry.

This is a guide coat to see how the sanding was going. I’m a bit limited in places as there are a few spots through the filler to the glass and thats time to stop. Its pretty good.

I’m still liking the sanding sticks and wish I’d started with them!

How many pics of the same thing can you stand?

This is pretty clean at 220 grit. My painter advised 320 but I’m going with the collective wisdom that this is too smooth for paint to adhere to. I did a lot of small fills all over the place and plenty of work on the RAM air cover too.

A lot of work you just can’t see here and given its on the bottom no one else will either when the plane is all done. I mean who looks underneath?

Date:  11-01-2019

Number of Hours:  20

Manual Reference:  25 - Paint Prep

Paint prep continues. It’s really just sanding and more sanding. It is not however mindless.

I have returned the control surfaces back to the hangar. Nothing much was happening at home. I have refilled a couple of things. My intent is to have either perfectly flat surfaces or appropriately contoured per the templates.

Longboard sanding is the name of the game.

I have ‘invested’ in five Dura-Block rubber sanding blocks of various lengths. My only regret is that I didn’t buy them sooner. I have sandpaper from a professional store that services the ‘spray paint trade’. The paper comes with an adhesive back that makes life easy, Buying this sort of thing from the local hardware store is no longer on my agenda.

Looks ugly, feels smooth. I am now using Dolphin Glaze which is an industry standard glaze filler for getting pinhole filled. I did consider the ‘Cory Bird method’ or epoxy wipe as some call it. Frankly I have so few pin holes I’m liking the dolphin glaze method better than wiping the whole wing several times with wet epoxy.

I’m going for 320 grit before the next round of undercoat. I have removed nearly all of the previous undercoat. I’m changing brands, going from roll on paint to spray paint and things are changing. I’ll do a post on this later. Enough to say the process is a pain. I am determined to get is as right as I can.

More prep for the new undercoat. I have to say my second go at this is even more meticulous, as it should be.

A reminder of my sanding set up. Standing on milk crates to get the job done.

Date:  10-01-2019

Number of Hours:  16

Manual Reference:  no ref

This is a part of the finishing processes in the sense that its ‘last call’. Time to do those little tweaks as ‘do it later’ is now.

This is just one shot of quite a bit of work. I found that the canard was very hard to install because of the auto pilot servo. So I modified the servo mount and that helped a lot. Then I found that the two phenolic torque tube mounts came loose and they were not up to quality.

The excess was removed at the sides and I did a careful two ply layup onto the sides of each insert over several days. It is now clean and strong. After a few more hours work the canard fit was back to where it should be.

Once the canard fir was good again I went for the canard cover fit. As you can see its nice and tight now, or rather a clean fit.

Both sides got several filler cures and I redid the bottom of the canard as well so this is now a good fit with minimal gaps. My thinking is that this is it, last stop before the paint so time to get the details right.

One view of the undercoat. I’ve spent days on this on both wings, mostly for nothing.  …now the painting plans have changed and much of this undercoat is being sanded off.

Date:  09-29-2019

Number of Hours:  10

Manual Reference:  25 Paint Undercoat

Finally my roller is getting wet.

After more prep and sanding work, I’m ready for the undercoat. I did go for a grease and wax remover and then a tack rag as final prep before the paint. The data sheets have you use a special detergent wash and a LOT of water. I’m not OK with hosing down the wing at this stage of the game.

This is what I’m using. Its a high build undercoat and there will be a lot of sanding and fine filling work later before the topcoat.

Yes I am rolling it on.

More fun than spray gear and given I’m sanding it all later the finish is more than adequate.

As a 6 foot paint job (looks good from 6 feet away) I’d call this done! …as I’m going for another colour and a topcoat and maybe a 1 foot paint job, it has barely begun.

Looks good for now, Tomorrow its back to sanding.