Posts by Dave Berenholtz

Dave Berenholtz
1304 posts
http://www.alongwayroundtheworld.com

Rudder Gust Locks

Date:  12-15-2021
Number of Hours:  9
Manual Reference:  no ref

These rudder gust locks are completely James Redmon’s idea and documented on his site. Kudos to James. Thank-you.

The first part of this mod I have documented in the rudder section.

Here’s the flashback to when I built the rudders and added an aluminium tube and found a push pin to fit.

Now with the rudders finished Its time to make the locks. I started with the usual thin duct tape.

Next up was a piece of aluminium to lay the glass on at the right angle.

Trusty hot glue keeps the plate in place to complete my “mold”.

I used four ply of BID and thought that would work.

Four ply was still a bit soft so I added two ply of carbon fiber. Probably 3 ply of carbon would have done the job. That stuff is stiff.

Final trial fit and its looking OK. Off to the “paint shop”.

Yes, a clean up then primer, red paint and some satin clear on top. These will be quite visible against the white. If I haven’t checked my rudders before taxing off they could be left on! I like to check my rudders so it should be all good. Certainly trying to taxi would also point out that I’ve forgotten something. When parked these things will stop rudder flapping.

Nearly done.

I decided that the inside areas needed padding to protect the rudder area paint. I found some thin rubber and there we are. Now its all done.

Final Panel Frame Installed 1

Date:  12-11-2021
Number of Hours:  10
Manual Reference:  no ref

Finally the main panel frame is re-installed. Yes it was in previously but this is after the screen printing and setting everything up on the practice frame.

I ended up making three panels. The first in MDF and the other two in 2024-T3 Aluminium .125″ thick. The first metal one will go in a sim I’m building, the second is below the ‘final cut’ so no waste! OK, the MDF is in the bin.

Its all been hand cut with a jigsaw and finished with a dremel and hand files. By the time I learned and set it all up in CAD I could have made 10 panels by hand. I didn’t need ten panels anyway. I’ve used nutplates almost everywhere too. If you need your panel done….ask someone else.

Fitting it for real, I found a few access problems and had things to cut and file. The frame went in and out quite a few times before it all started to settle down.

Once the frame was in, my avionics guy came over and we did a check fit for the canard. Well that was a surprise. The elevator cross tube was in the way of lots of things and one back shell looks like its not going to ever fit. The remote VHF radio has had to be positioned back to the spot you see above. Note we have minimal clearance to the G3X fan.

Here’s the same place with a new bracket installed. The VHF box now sits on an angle and the issue of the antenna at the back is resolved with it now clear. I’ve also had to move the earth tree back a little. Four new nutplates have gone in too. Two of these were installed by drilling holes with a hand tap rather than pull everything out.

It is still tight back there. Our next fitting section will start working out where we set those looms in place. The main current issue is availability of my guy. We have spent many months getting it happening on his bench which I haven’t documented or counted as build hours. I was just support staff then.

Landing Brake Switch

Date:  11-26-2021
Number of Hours:  10
Manual Reference:  no ref

This is one of those little jobs that proved very challenging. I wanted a position switch for the landing brake aka speed brake. I purchase a Ray Allen unit from the UK with a 1.2″ travel. After many experimental hours I gave up on fitting it and have gone for a simple open of closed switch.

The brake actuator in a horizontal movement sense is stationary, moves in the reverse direction and the later half movement is smooth. It is also located in a place where I have to lay on the strakes with my head upside down to get to it. I’m sure it can be done with heroic measures. Nope, it’s plan B.

I have ended up with a simple mini roller switch and an AN3 bolt.

While the brake is going up I can stop it at any point on the travel via my throttle switch. The idea is to use this to see if it works for glide control like an air-brake.  In  practice I’d be looking at the aiming point, not my instrument readout on the G3X. So the position idea was overkill at best anyway.

Here the brake is nearly shut. You can see how it works. When it is shut the bolt head closes the switch. Simple. I then get the cockpit indication that the brake is closed. If I have forgotten to retract it and engage full throttle for take off, the electronics will close it automatically.

I will be taxiing with the brake down at times to protect the prop from stones thrown up if the runway or taxi way is not well maintained. This is why the main feature I need is ‘brake closed’ indication on the panel AND connected to an ‘auto close’ circuit.

Cowl Keeper Mod

Date:  12-03-2021
Number of Hours:  10
Manual Reference:  no ref

This plane has the Mike Melvill carbon cowls. Lightweight and proven. There is a problem putting them on by yourself.

As you see here the cowls sit on a lip upside down. Take your hand away and they just fall before you can get a couple of fasteners in place. What tends to happen is that you struggle getting one in and then this takes all the weight while you try to get another fastener in on the other side.

What I wanted was a way to get the bottom cowl to just sit there while I sort out the screwdriver. Sure the camlocs get to sit permanently later but its still a problem.

These pics are the result of several failed attempts and a few layups that I had to redo. It was a process. Above are ‘carbon hooks’ on the right side.

After cure I added three plies of glass to ensure they will not delam. When I had one on each side they did during trial fits. Two on one side spreads the load.

Forward at the spar also on the right side I have these tabs. The idea is that you slide these in place on the right side and ensure that the hooks are positioned too. I do this while holding the boat tail at the back.

Here we are on the left side. Once the right is engaged a much shorter tab on the left is easily slotted in.

Here we are on the left side again. Note we have no hooks here just the barely engaged tabs. This is all that is needed and works a treat. The bottom cowl can now sit there without fasteners quite happily.

I especially wanted this for all the cowl cooling duct work I will be doing soon. I need to be able to get the bottom cowl on and off quickly and without drama.

 

Tenth Year Summary

Date:  12-01-2021
Number of Hours:  0
Manual Reference:  no ref

Build start DEC 1 2011
Today is DEC 1 2021

Ten Years Building.

My build log now shows 12,904 hours. OK I thought I’d be done by this time in 2020! Wrong. In fact now it looks like I will be well into 2022 before first flight. It is VERY possible I’m on my last year of the build.

Still no engine delivery date although we are looking at early March with the AC-Aero X440 or whatever they finally call it. This is a Lycoming 0-360 angle valve case with the Higgs cylinders and stroked out to 440 cubic inches. We are still going for 300HP non turbo.

I’ve been at the hangar nearly every day since the last summary but this year it was between 4 and 5 months of more Covid19 lockdown. Our state had the most days lockdown in the world. This has hardly helped my build progress although my house is cleaner.

Otherwise I have been at the hangar every single day and I hardly know how I haven’t made more progress or where all the time went.

The airframe is painted, finally. Here is XEZ with JZE which is also getting some maintenance. The engine in the new build is a loaner for sizing radiators.

The paint job is excellent. That scoop in the nose is really where a new infrared vision camera is mounted. That is a game changer for night flying. A significant and challenging install as well. It will display on the G3X.

The paint job even worked out where you can’t see it.

It will probably never look this shiny again.

All the hinges have Teflon liners which was quite a job. The ailerons and elevators have been balanced and installed. The front and rear flow dividers are installed. Canopy seals are nearly done.

Wheel pants and other removable parts all had to be refitted after the paint. It was a LOT of work.

Brake lines, piss tubes and heat shields here and around the spar are all done. I’m yet to fill the brakes with fluid and try them.

Fuel caps are installed.

Avionics are working on a bench. My guy has done an amazing job and fits me in around his usual work so progress has been slow at times.

All that fitting work I did more than a year ago is finally paying off. The screen printed panel is showing here. Fitted into the airframe it is rock solid.

OK, here it is. I expect to fly next year, 2022 in this plane. Engine and avionics to go. Avionics very close, engine yet to be delivered. I have a huge challenge with sorting out radiator placement and building ducts. I’m yet to source radiators that fit!

Who know what will happen next. I’ll just keep showing up to the hangar until its done.

Canopy Seal 1

Date:  11-14-2021
Number of Hours:  30
Manual Reference:  18

Kudos goes to Nick Ugolini for this canopy sealing method. Here’s his blog entry. He does say something about it being a weekend job. There are no weekend jobs on my build if that means it gets finished in a weekend. It MIGHT be finished on a weekend after weeks of work is the usual story.

Here’s Nick’s description:- I have found the V-seal to be incredibly effective. The main problem with most seal systems is over crushing of the seal and using cheap weather stripping to seal the canopy. It means your are ALWAYS fighting the seals to close and lock the canopy, over crushing of the seal, and the mis-matching of the canopy to fuselage causing air leaks where the canopy to longeron distance is too great. Imagine a car door. The door gaps are engineered for the seals. The seals are NOT just haphazardly chosen to fit on to hand made doors after they are made.

First up, make some hard points.

That screw with a washer is one of 4 hardpoints I have put in fore and aft. The idea is that the canopy closes onto a fixed corner and then we have the flexible seal in between.

After several tries I made up plastic pieces the same width as the Vee seal I’ll be using less 30% height. Then I covered sections in release tape and plenty of wax.

Here we are with the canopy closed and epoxy/410 filler oozing out.

After cure this is whats left.

After the first clean up, we are starting to get a base for the rubber seal that is perfectly sized for the variable longeron gap.

This is a bit of the yellow spacer I used. On the front lip it had to be curved in two directions. Then I hot glued it in place.

 

Next up tape and wax. You can see some of the completed inside groove too.

The front edge sealed and waiting for the cure.

After I worked it open and a bit of sandpaper we get a clean result.

This is pretty much the groove done. I won’t mention when the canopy got stuck down so badly I had to cut off one of the canopy latches at the front to work it open. Then I had to make a new canopy latch! This has been a really difficult job over three weeks.

The front edge was challenging.

These long sides had to be cut into the canopy  in places and then built back up.

Overall I still don’t know if this is going to work. The concept is sound.

These ends are interesting. They should seal although maybe there will be a very slight gap that I’ll have to deal with. On the plans canopy it would be a MUCH easier job. I just had to do this ultra wide canopy mod didn’t I?

Its going to look better with a little paint. I still have the seals to put in too!

I’ve now added some grey undercoat. It looks better. After the seals it will need proper speckle topcoat and thats going to be a lot of masking work!

 

 

 

 

 

Aileron Refitting

Date:  11-01-2021
Number of Hours:  10
Manual Reference:  

The ailerons are back in the wings. Maybe for the last time.

Some time ago I prepped the long pushrods with primer and topcoat. Not my best painting but I have protected the aluminium and those rods are not on show. I do like to do my best when I can noting…

Voltaire said, “The best is the enemy of the good.” Confucius said, “Better a diamond with a flaw than a pebble without.” And, of course, there’s Shakespeare: “Striving to better, oft we mar what’s well.”

Did I mention the over two month wait for special liner for the hinges after I ran out? Then many hours putting them in. Please pretend you can see them.

While the ailerons had been on pre paint, after paint it was a problem. I had to sand carefully for some hours to get it all to fit again.

The specs are 2.1″ +-.3″ I think. Deflection in both directions inboard end. Up is easy.

Hard to see here but I made 2.2″ down on both sides. From here its just stick and pushrod adjustments to make it all correct. I needed to ensure I had the possibility of the 2.1″ all over.  All is good. Roll rate for a swept wing is slow anyway and I’ve never run out of aileron on my flying LE with the 2.1″ deflection.

I’ve used these small metal locknuts and a thin washer and have thread showing in spec everywhere. As is my practice, once tightened for the final time I add a little blue torque seal to remind me no need to re tighten here. I just wish the seal came in a better tube, its a mess.

Wilhelmson Rotary Canopy Latch Mod 2

Date:  10-17-2021
Number of Hours:  6
Manual Reference:  18

This is my second major mod to this rotary latch. Despite being a very clever design that solved a problem for me, it created other issues and was perhaps not mature enough a design for our tiny canard market. The supplier has ceased production. I make no criticism, doing it all again I would go in a different direction.

My lack of side door, large throttle placement and large side window still makes it a good solution.

Here it is with those two worm screws showing. The inner one of them is critical. The outer one just holds on a guidance shaft for the Allen key entry.

Here is the critical screw.

That tiny worm holds the big one place. IF that very small worm, with only 4 threads, slips on the flat part of the big worm. BIG TROUBLE.

In fact I would be locked out of the plane and no way to get in without either smashing the canopy or drilling out  the worm and maybe using an ‘easy out’ to activate the handle on the inside.  No problem if you are already in the plane then you use the canopy handle not the rotary latch to get out.  It is potential lockout that is scary.

What I did was engage a master machinist. We got a longer main Allen key worm and set it in place with a countersunk screw on the end. Then for that side worm screw, we got a longer one and instead of a flat, drilled a side hole so the small worm screw engaged positively into a hole. With two different pitch threads on the big worm it can not undo. The side worm is just a bonus.

I ‘Loctited’ the whole thing together and forgot to take pictures. Sorry. Now it can’t come loose and is 100% positive with zero slip. I have confidence again in the latch.

Vortilons and Wing Fences Installed (post paint)

Date:  10-10-2021
Number of Hours:  3
Manual Reference:  no ref

The Vortilons and Wing fences were painted separately and now the plane is white they need to be installed.

I used quality 5 mt epoxy with a little micro to thicken it.

After laying out the positions and checking 3 or four times I got to work.

Given its an awkward spot to clamp, I just held each of the six pieces in place one by one until they cured.

Now it looks like a Long-EZ wing that has a Roncz canard up front.

The fences were a bit easier to glue in place as they stay put.

Lots of checking of angles here as you can’t really tell by eye if they are right. I had to trust the numbers.

I’m sure this will make transport more difficult when I have to truck the build to a remote location for testing.

Another small but necessary job done.

Final Elevator Fit and Ice Shields

Date:  10-02-2021
Number of Hours:  8
Manual Reference:  11

This is the post paint elevator set up where I get to put the hinge pins in… again.

Here the long pins are not yet installed. Its a bit of a fiddle as the center torque tube and offset pieces all have to fit together. Getting these pins in is a bit of a horror job on these planes.

Sadly the hinges went in and out a few times. I did have metal washers installed to eliminate end play. It is very hard to get these in with the pins. The elevators were too stiff so I took them out, with the pins of course having to come out again. I checked the plans and there were no washers showing. After a bit of a think all I could see them doing would be the reduce end play.

I sourced some nylon ones just for the outer edges.

Well the elevators were still a bit tight. After more goes I had one pin all the way in. Then I realised the washers had to go. I cut them out with a razor blade in-situ. Fun? Not so much.

I got the other pin almost fully in and that was it. I finally realised that it was hitting a through bolt inboard of the offset crank. I thought about it overnight and just shortened the rod. It was doing nothing being 2 inches longer hanging in space. Yeap, the pin came out and went in again. Vise grips, WD40 and anything else in the cupboard.

At the end of the second day, well after dark, they were in.

I finished off the center section with new hardware and a bit of blue torque seal. That’s my code for ‘this item is secured ready for flight’.

I made these Ice shields that fit over the counter weights ages ago and they were painted with all the other bits. I don’t know if the larger sleeker format that the usual covers was a good idea or not. Better airflow over them maybe but bigger wetted area too.

They fit, the elevators swing full  range, they are balanced and the full up, full down are within specs. We are good to go.

Fuel Cap Install, Safety Line and Earth

Date:  09-29-2021
Number of Hours:  25
Manual Reference:  21

Now the strakes are beautifully painted I need to cut two big holes in them for the fuel caps.

The exact position for the fuel caps just took too long. When I built the strakes I made plastic templates so I would know where the flanges were to allow the caps to go close but not on top.This is for strength.

I used the tennis ball to help visualise what would happen if I spilled fuel. I wanted to gauge the runoff and its direction relative to the caps.

I didn’t want to be too near the passenger and right in the middle of the highest point would give me maximum fuel if I ever wanted every drop possible. The downside of this was it put the caps too far from the leading edge to be comfortable when juggling a heavy fuel nozzle. It also had me or a refueler leaning well over my nice pretty paint with rivets in jeans scratching my while plane. Hey!!

I ended up going on the ‘down slope’ after calculating how much less fuel I would carry if the caps were in a sensible position. The answer was less than a liter fewer a side.

Marking this out after measuring and remeasuring and second guessing myself over a few days was a big deal.

Once I had a tiny hole marked it was on! This first hole took ages, the second one happened in about 20 minutes.

I used lots of toys including the improvised sanding drum aka red tape with sandpaper glued to it.

You can see I have just gone down to the inner skin at the bottom. At the sides I have removed material so I can get flox under the top skin. When that bonds to the fuel cap to will give extra strength to hold the cap in place.

I made a bunch of key holes via a round bit to give the flox something to grab onto. I also roughed out the cap bottom with 80 grit after this photo. I took the shine off the key surface paint as well.

Then I had to cut through the hole to the tank itself. I had my vacuum cleaner on hand and if any debris got in the tank it is too small to see. I will be flushing fuel though them later when I do W&B.

Given I am not exactly to plans on this I want to weigh with different fuel loads when I have the aircraft scales hired.  That’s when the fuel calibration will be done.

I used a lot of flox and cleaned up a good squeeze out. I think there are no voids to worry about. I used the same epoxy the tanks were built with. Old school and proven fuel safe over many years.

The fuel caps are now permanently in place.

A very important safety item is to ensure the caps do not depart the airplane if they are not locked in place.

Of course I will never forget this but I’d hate to have even the possibility of a cap go into the prop . I also chose to have the caps inside the prop arc, even when outside of this a lose cap can still make its way into the prop.

I’m using 2024T3 0.063″ aluminium and shaped so it JUST fits sideways in the fuel cap opening. Once tethered at the apex it will keep the cap from departure.

The length of the cable allows the triangle to sit on the bottom of the tank even when the cap is off and resting nearby.

I used simple attachments and rudder cable, During refueling an earth strap can go on the cap latch. The other end needs to penetrate the surface of the fuel. The body of the cap is ‘coated’ and will not earth, so use the latch!

I have also put some braid inside the tanks so earthing is possible from the external vents assuming I connect them at the vent manifold. There are options. The cap seems the simplest.

Touching the fuel nozzle to the cap latch initially may be good practice. However the fuel running quickly through the metal hose also builds up static.

This is how it will go during refueling. If I’m smart I’ll have a rag handy to put on the strake.

Cap in place, job done.

 

Brake Lines at the Wheels 2

Date:  09-30-2021
Number of Hours:  3
Manual Reference:  9

My new brake lines, +20mm longer, showed up today so I could finish things off at the wheel.

You might see that the braided lines now look the right length.

Once the Swagelok fittings were installed I finished off with some heat shield material. This went on the piss tubes or relief tubes if you prefer, as well as a little extra to keep the brake line stable.

Here we are on the other side. I expect I will be inspecting this area after the taxi tests and again after a few landings to ensure all is well. The brake lines are done now, they just need fluid and testing.